Saturday, August 14, 2010

You Asked...Sensitive Skin + Acne



I'm 31yrs old, healthy, active and such .. but my face is super-sensitive and acne-prone without being particularly oily or dry .. more "normal" if such a state exists. I have tried the drugstore brands targeted for sensitive skin and have done nothing but break out in response. Any formulations specifically targeted for acne only result in parched skin to begin with and ultimately more breakouts.  ~Alexandra

Ok, while it sounds (and probably feels) like you have a lot going on with your skin, it is more than likely an issue of using the wrong products. You may have sensitive skin, or skin that is sensitive to certain ingredients, with average oil production but neither of these are causing acne. Most likely your blemishes are due to clogged pores from certain ingredients. I too have sensitive skin, and while I am on the dry side and have few breakouts, certain products for sensitive/dry skin will cause me to get zits, either the tiny bumps or big red ones. This is because of the emollient ingredient(s) used in the product.

One way I can usually tell if a product, and it can be a moisturizer OR cleanser, is going to cause clogged pores and blemishes is how it makes my skin look after I use it. Bright, healthy and glowing = happy complexion, dull and waxy = bumps. This is not to say that the product itself is bad, just wrong for my skin. With sensitive skin, and since you said you have a normal skin type which I read as average oil production, I am going to guess that you do not have thick skin or large pores. A complexion with finer pores usually does better with lighter moisturizing ingredients, and there are light moisturizers that deliver a big dose of hydration. For instance, Jojoba, Sweet Almond and Sea Buckthorn oils are light yet easily absorb into skin. Argan oil on the other hand, true moisturizing and anti-aging wonder that it is, is often too heavy for normal to dry or sensitive skin types.

Another cause of breakouts is overly drying acne products with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide. When you use these harsh products on your skin to dry out the blemishes it actually causes the oil glands to work harder and produce more oil to compensate for being sapped. The drying effect causes flakiness on the top layer of skin, trapping the increased oil underneath, resulting in…you guessed it, zits. You can also dry your skin by over-cleansing. Rule of thumb: If your skin isn’t dirty, don’t wash it. Often a splash of warm water or mild toner is all your skin needs to freshen up in the morning and you can leave the "real" cleansing for night or post-work out -- whenever skin needs it.

So, what is the best way to go about keeping your skin happy and healthy? I realize that not everyone will agree with this next statement, but I truly believe it. When it comes to skincare less is more. The more scrubbing, rubbing, and layering we do, the more irritated and upset our skin becomes.

A mild cleanser, toner, moisturizer, and an exfoliant are really the only products you need to maintain a healthy complexion. Those and a healthy diet, plenty of water, and exercise.

I feel that your skin could really benefit from Dr. Alkaitis Skin Care. Dr Alkaitis products are made with certified organic, wild crafted or biodynamic ingredients and contain no chemical or synthetic ingredients.  A friend of mine with “normal” skin type tried them and loved them.  The folks at Dr. Alkaitis have offered to send Alexandra free samples of some of their products to try!

More products recommendations:

Lavera Basis Cleansing Gel – This is a very gentle gel cleanser that works well to remove dirt and makeup and is suitable for most skin types.

My fave all time toner, as I’ve mentioned a time or two before, is chilled brewed green tea. Refreshing and loaded with antioxidants!

Lavera Calendula Balancing Cream – This moisturizer is designed for Normal/Combination skin types but works like a charm on my sensitive skin. Just the right amount of moisture without being greasy.

Exfoliant – Again, I will repeat myself here, but a simple sugar and milk mixture is the best exfoliant I have come across. Mix organic granulated sugar with enough organic milk to your desired consistency (not too runny is best). Gently massage into face and neck in circular motion while in the shower and rinse off with warm water. Can be used on face and body.

For eyes 100% Pure Organic Coffee Bean Eye Cream is seriously hydrating without being greasy and the caffeine reduces puffiness and decreases the appearance of dark circles. Trilogy 100% Rosehip Oil is a super nourishing night time treatment.

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